# So you need to ship a car. Now what? You've accepted a job across the country. Or you bought your dream car from a seller 2,000 miles away. Maybe you're snowbirding to Florida and don't feel like driving. Whatever the reason, you're staring at a problem: how do you actually get a car from point A to point B without putting a thousand miles on the odometer yourself? Welcome to the world of car shipping—an industry I've been part of for over 15 years. And I'll be honest with you: it's not as complicated as people make it seem. But it *is* full of quirks, industry jargon, and processes that nobody bothers to explain. Let me fix that. ## The 30-second version (for the impatient) Here's car shipping in a nutshell: 1. You get a quote based on your route, vehicle, and timing 2. You book with a broker or carrier 3. A driver picks up your car, inspects it, and loads it onto a trailer 4. Your car travels with 7-10 other vehicles on a car carrier truck 5. The driver delivers it to your destination 6. You inspect the car, sign off, and you're done That's it. The whole process typically takes 1-2 weeks from booking to delivery, depending on distance and availability. But if you want to actually understand what's happening—and avoid getting burned—keep reading. ## Step 1: Getting a quote (and understanding what affects pricing) The first thing you'll do is get a quote. This is where most people's confusion starts, so let me break down what actually affects your price. ### Distance matters, but not how you think Obviously, shipping a car from LA to New York costs more than shipping from LA to Phoenix. But the price doesn't scale linearly with distance. Here's why: per-mile rates actually *decrease* as distance increases. A 300-mile shipment might cost $1.50-$2.00 per mile, while a 2,000-mile shipment might be $0.50-$0.70 per mile. Fun fact: shipping a car 2,000 miles often costs less than twice as much as shipping it 500 miles. The math seems weird, but it's about fixed costs (loading, unloading, paperwork) getting spread over more miles. ### Your vehicle type changes everything Not all cars are created equal when it comes to shipping costs: **Standard sedans and compact cars:** Lowest rates. They're easy to load, don't take much space, and carriers love them. **SUVs and trucks:** 10-20% more than sedans. They're heavier and take up more vertical space on the trailer. **Lifted trucks, oversized vehicles:** 25-50% premium. Some carriers won't touch them at all because they might not fit on standard trailers. **Classic cars, exotics, luxury vehicles:** Often require enclosed transport (more on that below), which can cost 40-60% more than open transport. **Non-running vehicles:** Expect a 10-25% surcharge. Loading a car that can't drive onto the trailer requires a winch and extra time. ### Route popularity is the hidden factor This is something most people don't realize: *where* you're shipping matters as much as *how far*. **High-volume routes** (think LA to Texas, Florida to New York, California to Arizona) have tons of carriers constantly moving back and forth. Competition is fierce, prices are lower, and pickups happen faster. **Low-volume routes** (rural areas, less populated states, one-way corridors) are trickier. Carriers have to deadhead (drive empty) to pick up your car, which costs them money. That cost gets passed to you. If you're shipping to or from a rural area, expect longer wait times for pickup and potentially higher prices. It's not personal—it's logistics. ### Timing and seasonality The car shipping industry has predictable busy seasons: **Summer (June-August):** Peak season. Families relocate before school starts, college students move, and everyone's on the road. Prices are highest, wait times are longest. **Snowbird season (October-November and March-April):** Retirees moving south for winter or north for summer create surge demand on specific routes (Midwest/Northeast to Florida, for example). **Winter holidays:** December is surprisingly slow, but early January sees a spike from new year relocations. **Best time to ship:** Late winter (February-March) and early fall (September) typically offer the best combination of availability and pricing. ## Step 2: Understanding your options Once you have a quote, you need to make some decisions about how you want your car shipped. ### Open vs. enclosed transport **Open transport** is the standard. Your car rides on an open-air trailer with 7-10 other vehicles, exposed to the elements but protected by the trailer's structure. It's what you see on highways constantly—those double-decker car carriers. **Enclosed transport** puts your car inside a covered trailer, protecting it from weather, road debris, and prying eyes. It's what dealerships use for high-end deliveries. | Factor | Open Transport | Enclosed Transport | |--------|---------------|-------------------| | Cost | $$ | $$$-$$$$ | | Availability | Very high | Limited | | Protection | Good | Excellent | | Wait times | 1-5 days | 3-10 days | | Best for | Standard vehicles | Classics, exotics, luxury | My honest take? Unless you're shipping a $100k+ car, a classic worth preserving, or something with a custom paint job you're paranoid about, open transport is fine. Your car drives through rain and road debris every day. A few days on a trailer won't hurt it. ### Door-to-door vs. terminal **Door-to-door** means the carrier picks up and delivers directly at your addresses (or as close as their truck can safely get—more on this below). **Terminal-to-terminal** means you drop off and pick up at carrier facilities or staging areas. Door-to-door is standard these days and usually included in quotes. Terminal options exist mainly for commercial clients or when your location is genuinely inaccessible. "Door-to-door" comes with an asterisk: car carrier trucks are 75+ feet long. If your street is narrow, has low trees, or requires tight turns, the driver might ask you to meet them nearby. This is normal—not a scam. ## Step 3: Booking your shipment This is where the industry gets confusing, so let me explain who you're actually dealing with. ### Brokers vs. carriers (and why it matters) **Carriers** are the companies that own trucks and employ drivers. They physically move your car. **Brokers** are intermediaries who match your shipment with available carriers. They handle customer service, payment processing, and coordination. Here's the truth most people don't understand: **most car shipping companies you find online are brokers, not carriers.** Even big-name companies. This isn't inherently bad. Good brokers provide real value: - They have relationships with hundreds of carriers - They handle the logistics of matching your route with available trucks - They provide a single point of contact and customer service - They offer some level of accountability if things go wrong The problem is *bad* brokers who: - Quote low to get your business, then raise prices later - Post your car on load boards and forget about you - Disappear when problems arise - Have no real relationships with quality carriers How to spot a good broker: they ask detailed questions about your car and timeline, they're upfront about being a broker, they don't pressure you for immediate deposits, and they can explain exactly how their pricing works. ### What happens when you book Once you've found a company you trust and you're ready to book, here's the typical flow: 1. **You provide details:** Vehicle info, pickup/delivery addresses, preferred dates, any special requirements 2. **You pay a deposit:** Usually $100-$300, sometimes more for expensive shipments 3. **Your shipment gets posted:** Either to the broker's carrier network or to a load board (where carriers bid on jobs) 4. **A carrier accepts the job:** Could be same-day, could be a few days—depends on route and demand 5. **You get pickup confirmation:** Typically 24-48 hours before, you'll know the driver's name and ETA The remaining balance is usually paid at delivery, directly to the driver (often cash or certified check) or charged to your card. ## Step 4: Preparing your car for pickup You've booked, a driver is scheduled—now what? ### The essential prep checklist **Clean your car.** Not because carriers are picky, but because you need to document its condition. A dirty car makes it harder to spot and photograph existing scratches, dings, and damage. **Remove personal items.** This is non-negotiable. Carrier insurance doesn't cover personal belongings. If it's not bolted down, take it out. Exception: some carriers allow up to 100 pounds in the trunk, but confirm this in advance. **Document everything.** Take photos of every angle, close-ups of any existing damage, and shots of the odometer. Email them to yourself with timestamps. This is your insurance if there's a damage dispute later. **Leave minimal gas.** Quarter tank is ideal. Less weight = better for the carrier, and you won't be paying to ship fuel. **Disable toll transponders.** Remove your E-ZPass, FasTrak, or SunPass. Otherwise, you'll get charged for tolls as the carrier drives through. **Check for leaks.** Carriers will refuse cars that are actively dripping fluids. Get leaks fixed first. **Disable alarms.** There's nothing worse than a car alarm going off on a trailer in the middle of Kansas at 3am. Trust me, drivers hate it. Don't leave anything valuable in your car. I've seen people lose laptops, jewelry, and even cash. Even if the driver is honest, cars change hands and you can't guarantee security. ### What to have ready - Keys (all sets you have) - Vehicle registration or title copy - Valid ID - Payment for remaining balance (if paying at pickup) ## Step 5: The pickup process Pickup day. Here's what to expect. ### The pre-pickup call Your driver should call 12-24 hours before pickup to confirm the window. They'll give you an estimated arrival time—usually a range like "between 2pm and 4pm." Be flexible. These drivers are managing multi-stop routes, traffic, weather, and other pickups/deliveries. Exact timing is impossible. ### When the driver arrives The driver will: 1. **Verify your identity** with your ID 2. **Locate your vehicle** and confirm it matches the booking 3. **Conduct an inspection** walking around your car with you, noting any existing damage on a Bill of Lading (BOL) This inspection is critical. **Do not rush through it.** Check every panel, every corner, every wheel. If you see damage that isn't marked on the BOL, point it out immediately. Get it documented. Once you're both satisfied, you'll sign the BOL. This document is your contract and your protection. Keep a copy. ### Loading After paperwork, the driver loads your car. On open transport, this usually means driving it onto the trailer and securing it with wheel straps or chains. On enclosed transport, the process is similar but inside the trailer. Some things that might happen: - Driver adjusts mirror positions for clearance - Driver disconnects your battery (to prevent drain) - Driver leaves a window slightly cracked (to prevent pressure buildup) All normal. Don't panic. ## Step 6: Transit (the waiting game) Your car is on its way. Now what? ### Realistic transit times | Route | Typical Transit | |-------|----------------| | 0-500 miles | 1-3 days | | 500-1,000 miles | 2-4 days | | 1,000-1,500 miles | 3-5 days | | 1,500-2,000 miles | 4-7 days | | 2,000+ miles | 5-10 days | These are transit times *after pickup*, not total timeline from booking. Carriers don't drive 24/7. Drivers have mandatory rest periods, and trucks need fuel and maintenance. A coast-to-coast trip has multiple stops and overnight breaks. Plan accordingly. ### Communication during transit Good companies provide updates. At minimum, you should be able to get status information on request. Some offer GPS tracking (through apps or driver check-ins), others rely on driver phone calls at major milestones. If you haven't heard anything for 2-3 days on a long haul, reach out. But don't expect hourly updates—drivers are driving. ## Step 7: Delivery Your car is almost home. Here's the final stretch. ### The pre-delivery call Similar to pickup, expect a call 12-24 hours before delivery with an estimated window. Same flexibility applies. ### The delivery inspection (the most important part) When your car arrives, you're doing another inspection. **This one matters even more than pickup.** Walk around with the driver. Compare the car's current condition to the pickup BOL. Look for: - New scratches or dings - Cracked glass - Tire damage - Loose parts - Missing items (mirrors, antennas, emblems) If everything looks good, sign the delivery BOL indicating no new damage. **If you find damage that wasn't there before:** 1. Note it clearly on the BOL before signing 2. Take photos immediately 3. Do not accept "we'll deal with it later" promises 4. Contact your broker/carrier immediately to file a claim Once you sign a clean delivery BOL, proving the carrier caused damage becomes nearly impossible. Inspect thoroughly. This is not the time to be polite or hurried. ### Payment at delivery Most shipments require final payment at delivery. Have cash or certified funds ready if that's what was agreed. Some carriers accept cards, but confirm in advance. ## What can go wrong (and how to handle it) Let's be real: sometimes things don't go smoothly. Here's what to watch for. ### Delays They happen. Weather, mechanical issues, driver illness, traffic—lots of factors can push back your pickup or delivery. Good communication helps: a company that proactively tells you about delays is infinitely better than one that goes silent. ### Price increases after booking This shouldn't happen with reputable companies, but it's common with shady brokers. If someone tries to raise your price after you've booked: - Refer to your contract - Document everything - Consider walking away (some deposits are refundable if they can't honor the quoted price) ### Minor damage Most shipments arrive fine, but minor scratches or dings can happen. This is why documentation matters. If you noted the car's condition at pickup and the damage is new, you have a claim. ### Communication blackouts If your broker or carrier stops responding, that's a major red flag. Legitimate companies answer phones and emails. If you can't reach anyone for 24+ hours during an active shipment, you may have a problem. ## The bottom line Car shipping isn't rocket science. It's logistics—a series of coordinated steps that move your vehicle from here to there. The process is straightforward when you work with honest people: 1. Get a transparent quote 2. Book with a reputable company 3. Prepare your car properly 4. Document everything 5. Inspect carefully at both ends The industry has its share of bad actors, but plenty of professional carriers and brokers do great work every day. Your job is to find them, ask the right questions, and protect yourself with documentation. And if all this sounds like too much hassle? That's exactly why we built Dellcy—to strip away the uncertainty, give you real pricing upfront, and make car shipping as simple as it should be.

How car shipping works: the complete guide (from someone who's seen it all)