Most people spend ten minutes preparing their car for shipping. The ones who regret it spend ten minutes. The ones who don't spend about an hour.#

That hour isn't complicated. It's systematic. And every step has a specific purpose: either protecting your vehicle from preventable problems during transit, or building the documentation you need if something goes wrong and a claim becomes necessary.

Skipping preparation doesn't usually cause problems—the odds are in your favor that your car arrives fine regardless. But when something does go wrong, the difference between a successful damage claim and a denied one comes down almost entirely to what you did or didn't do before the carrier touched the vehicle.

Here's the complete preparation sequence, in order, with the reasoning behind each step.

Step 1: Wash the car thoroughly#

Wash the exterior completely 24–48 hours before pickup. Not for aesthetics—for inspection accuracy.

A dirty car hides existing scratches, chips, paint swirls, and small dents under a layer of road film. Those imperfections become invisible at pre-transport inspection. When the vehicle arrives at delivery clean—either from rain during transit or because the buyer washed it—those hidden marks appear fresh. The carrier has no record of them from pickup because nobody could see them. What was a pre-existing scratch becomes a disputed damage claim.

A clean car makes the pre-transport inspection accurate and unambiguous. Every existing mark is visible, documented, and defensible. Nothing discovered at delivery can be claimed as new if it was clearly documented at pickup.

Wash the interior too. Remove loose items, debris, change from cupholders, and anything on the floor. A clean interior baseline matters for the same reason as the exterior—pre-existing stains or wear items should be documented as existing, not discovered later and attributed to transport.

Don't wax the vehicle immediately before shipping. Fresh wax makes tire tracks and strap marks from the carrier's securing equipment more visible on the paint. A standard wash is the right call; a detail session is unnecessary and counterproductive.

Step 2: Document with 20–30 photos before anything else#

This is the most important preparation step and the one most people underdo. Ten photos taken quickly on your phone while rushing to get ready for the driver's arrival are not adequate documentation. Twenty to thirty photos taken methodically in good lighting the day before pickup are.

The photography sequence that covers everything:

Front of vehicle, straight on
Rear of vehicle, straight on
Driver's side, full profile
Passenger side, full profile
Front driver's corner (45-degree angle)
Front passenger's corner (45-degree angle)
Rear driver's corner (45-degree angle)
Rear passenger's corner (45-degree angle)
Roof (stand on a step stool or shoot from above if possible)
Hood, close up
Trunk lid, close up
All four doors, individually
Windshield (full width, checking for existing chips or cracks)
All other glass
All four wheels and tires
Underside of front bumper
Underside of rear bumper
Interior driver's area
Interior rear seat area
Dashboard and instrument cluster
Odometer (clear, legible reading)
Any existing damage, from two angles minimum

Lighting matters. Take photos in natural daylight, ideally when the sun is not directly overhead creating harsh shadows. Morning or late afternoon light shows paint condition, existing swirl marks, and subtle dents better than noon sun or indoor artificial light.

Timestamp matters. Use your phone's camera (which embeds date and time in the file metadata) or take the photos on a date-stamped cloud storage service. If a dispute goes to arbitration, the timestamp on your documentation is evidence.

Zoom in on existing damage specifically. If there's a rock chip on the hood, a door ding on the rear passenger door, or a scratch on the front bumper—photograph it from two feet away so the size and location are unambiguous. A distant photo that shows the car generally doesn't prove what was there before transport.

Store these photos somewhere you can access them at delivery—even if delivery is 14 days later and you've replaced your phone. Cloud backup is the right answer; a folder on the carrier's device only is not.

20–30 photos in good light, taken the day before—not the morning of

Morning-of photos taken in a rush while the driver is waiting are not the same as methodical photos taken the day before in good light. Take your time, work through the sequence above, and store them somewhere accessible for weeks. This documentation is your entire legal protection if a damage claim becomes necessary. Treat it accordingly.

Step 3: Reduce fuel to one-quarter tank#

Your vehicle should have approximately one-quarter tank of fuel at pickup—not more, not less than you need to drive it onto and off the carrier.

A full fuel tank adds 90–120 pounds of weight. Across a trailer carrying eight to ten vehicles, multiple full tanks meaningfully affect the carrier's fuel economy and total payload weight. Carriers are aware of this and some will note it at inspection; a few carriers specify fuel level in their terms.

One-quarter tank is sufficient for the driver to load, position, and unload the vehicle multiple times throughout a multi-stop route. It's not so little that there's any operational concern.

Don't go below one-quarter tank either—an inoperable or nearly empty vehicle that won't start during positioning creates a problem at delivery.

Step 4: Remove all personal items from the vehicle#

Remove everything from inside the car that isn't part of the vehicle itself.

This means: everything from the glove box, center console, door pockets, seat pockets, sun visor pockets, under the seats, and the trunk. Floor mats can stay (they're part of the vehicle). Cargo area covers can stay. Everything else comes out.

The reasoning is twofold. First, carrier cargo insurance covers the vehicle, not its contents. Personal items in a shipped car have zero insurance coverage regardless of what happens to them in transit. This is not a fine-print technicality—it's how the insurance is structured. Items left in the car travel entirely at your risk.

Second, items shift and can cause damage. A heavy item that's not secured can slide and scratch interior trim, damage upholstery, or break other items during ten days of highway vibration. Loose items in the cabin can also interfere with the driver's ability to move the vehicle during loading and unloading at each stop.

Most carriers allow up to 100 pounds of personal items in the trunk below the window line—but this is at the carrier's discretion and with zero insurance coverage. If you're using this allowance, pack items securely in boxes or hard containers and confirm the carrier permits it before pickup.

Personal documents should absolutely not be in the shipped vehicle: passports, birth certificates, Social Security cards, financial documents, vehicle titles. These travel with you. If the vehicle is delayed for any reason, you need these documents and don't have them.

Step 5: Check and address mechanical basics#

The driver needs to be able to drive your vehicle onto and off the carrier multiple times throughout the route. A vehicle that doesn't start, steer, or brake reliably creates a problem at every stop—and the carrier will note any issue discovered at pickup that you didn't disclose.

Confirm the vehicle starts reliably. If your battery is borderline, charge it or replace it before pickup. A vehicle that won't start strands the driver during positioning at both pickup and delivery. An inoperable vehicle that wasn't disclosed as such when booking can be refused at pickup or assessed an undisclosed-condition fee.

Check tire inflation. Properly inflated tires matter for loading, unloading, and the vehicle's position on the trailer during transit. Check all four tires and the spare. Underinflated tires change how the vehicle sits on the carrier and can affect securing equipment positioning.

Check brake function. The vehicle needs to move onto the carrier, be positioned, and stop when directed. Brakes that are marginal or soft should be addressed before transport if possible—or disclosed to the carrier if they're a known issue.

No active fluid leaks. A vehicle that's leaking oil or coolant onto a carrier's trailer affects other vehicles on the load. Carriers can refuse vehicles with active leaks. If your car has a known leak, either have it addressed before shipping or disclose it when booking so the carrier can assess whether they can accommodate it.

If the vehicle is inoperable or has significant mechanical issues: Disclose this when booking, not at pickup. Carriers price inoperable vehicles differently because of the equipment and handling required. A carrier who discovers an undisclosed inoperable vehicle at pickup—a car that won't start, won't steer, or won't roll under its own braking—may refuse the load, assess significant additional fees on the spot, or require rescheduling. None of these outcomes are convenient. A two-sentence disclosure when booking prevents all of them.

Step 6: Disable alarm and remove toll transponders#

Alarm systems: Disable your car alarm or put it in a transport mode that prevents accidental triggering. Some cars have a specific transport mode; others require removing the alarm fuse or carrying the key fob in a way that prevents activation.

A car alarm that trips repeatedly during a 10-day transit—from vibration, jostling during loading and unloading, or temperature changes triggering the sensors—is a significant problem for the carrier and for every other vehicle owner on that load. Drivers deal with it by removing the fuse themselves if they can, or by tolerating a nuisance that creates bad will with the carrier. Neither outcome is what you want.

If your alarm has a tendency to trigger from vibration or movement, make sure it's disabled before the driver arrives. Test it the day before: gently rock the car and see if the alarm activates. If it does, disable it.

Toll transponders: E-ZPass, SunPass, FasTrak, and all equivalent devices use RFID or image matching to charge tolls automatically. When the carrier drives through a toll lane, your transponder will record the toll and charge your account. On a coast-to-coast route through states with extensive toll infrastructure—the Northeast corridor, Florida, Texas—this can add up.

Remove the transponder from the windshield before pickup and store it in a toll-blocking pouch or in your possession during transit. If you forget and tolls are charged, disputing them with the toll authority after the fact is possible but time-consuming.

Step 7: Note any vehicle quirks in writing#

Every vehicle has its own behavior, and drivers encounter dozens of different vehicles on every load. A note that explains your car's specific characteristics helps the driver handle it correctly and prevents a normal quirk from being flagged as a transport problem.

Write a brief note with any relevant information:

Non-standard starting procedure (hold the clutch, turn key twice, wait for glow plug light, etc.)
Any door that sticks or requires a specific motion
Sensitive alarm that triggers easily from vibration
Non-standard gear selector movement
Known warning lights that are pre-existing (a check engine light for an emissions sensor that's been there for two years is worth noting)
Convertible top that must be in a specific position
Any mechanical quirk that affects how the vehicle is operated

Note these things on the Bill of Lading at pickup so there's a written record that they're pre-existing conditions, not transport-caused events. A pre-existing check engine light that's noted at pickup can't be blamed on the carrier at delivery.

Step 8: Handle modifications and specialty items#

Roof racks, cargo carriers, and aftermarket accessories: Remove roof racks, cargo boxes, bike racks, and any external accessories before shipping. These add height, affect clearance on the carrier trailer, and can be damaged or come loose during transit. Carriers often specify in their terms that external accessories must be removed. Even if yours doesn't, removing them protects the accessories and prevents clearance problems that complicate loading.

Lowered vehicles: If your car has been lowered—whether through aftermarket suspension or the stock position on a low-clearance performance vehicle—disclose this when booking. Loading a lowered vehicle onto a carrier ramp without proper equipment risks scraping the front lip, diffuser, or undercarriage. Carriers who know in advance bring appropriate ramps and positioning equipment. Carriers who discover a lowered vehicle at pickup deal with it in real time, which is more likely to produce damage.

Lifted trucks: Similarly, a lift kit that changes the vehicle's height affects where it can be positioned on the trailer. An oversized or lifted truck that won't fit a standard carrier slot needs to be disclosed when booking. Carriers who haul modified trucks routinely handle this when they know in advance; discovering it at pickup is a problem.

Convertibles: The top should be up and latched for transport. An open convertible top collects road debris and exposes the interior to weather for the duration of transit. If your convertible top has a malfunction that prevents it from latching, disclose this when booking.

Antique or classic vehicles with low ground clearance or non-standard dimensions: These should be booked with a carrier experienced in specialty transport and specifically disclosed in full at booking. For irreplaceable classics, enclosed transport is the appropriate choice, not open.

Step 9: Prepare your documents#

Have these documents ready before the driver arrives:

Government-issued ID. You'll sign the Bill of Lading, and the driver may need to verify your identity.

Vehicle registration. Confirms you are the registered owner of the vehicle being transported.

Insurance documentation. Your current insurance card, in case it's requested.

Booking confirmation. Your confirmed order from the broker or carrier, showing the agreed price, pickup window, and delivery address. Have this in hand so you can reference the agreed terms during the pickup inspection.

Your copy of the quoted price. If the driver or dispatcher quotes a different price than your booking confirmation, you need your written confirmation to address the discrepancy before signing anything.

Don't sign anything that contradicts your booking confirmation

If the price at pickup differs from your booking confirmation, or if the driver asks you to sign a blank Bill of Lading or a document that contradicts your agreed terms, stop. Reference your booking confirmation in writing. Contact your broker before signing anything that changes the agreed terms. Once you've signed, the document you signed governs—regardless of what your booking confirmation says.

Step 10: The pickup inspection—what to do when the driver arrives#

The pre-transport inspection is the most consequential moment in the entire shipping process. Everything you've prepared to this point serves this moment.

Do the walk-around together. The driver will inspect the vehicle and note existing damage on the Bill of Lading. Walk alongside them, actively. Don't stand back and let them conduct the inspection alone.

Reference your photos as you go. If you photographed a specific chip on the hood and the driver doesn't note it, point it out and ask that it be added. The Bill of Lading should reflect every piece of existing damage—not because you're being difficult, but because an accurate pre-transport record protects both you and the carrier.

Push back on anything inaccurate going the other way. If the driver notes damage that doesn't exist, say so clearly and ask that it be corrected before you sign. Don't sign a Bill of Lading that attributes existing damage to you incorrectly any more than you'd sign one that omits real damage.

Read the Bill of Lading before signing it. This document is simultaneously a contract, a condition report, and your legal basis for any future claim. Know what you're signing. The agreed price, the pickup and delivery addresses, and the vehicle condition should all match your expectations and your booking confirmation.

Get your signed copy before the driver leaves. Your copy of the signed Bill of Lading is your most important document for the duration of the transport. Store it somewhere you can access it at delivery—this means not putting it in the car with the vehicle.

Take photos after the inspection and after the vehicle is loaded if possible. If you can get a photo of your vehicle on the carrier, this documents its position and condition at the point of departure. Not always feasible, but valuable when possible.

The quick-reference checklist#

For the morning before pickup:

The day before:

The morning of pickup:

Gather documents: ID, registration, insurance card, booking confirmation
Be present for the full pickup inspection
Walk the vehicle with the driver; reference your photos
Confirm all existing damage is documented on the Bill of Lading
Read the Bill of Lading before signing
Get your signed copy before the driver leaves
Photograph vehicle on carrier if access allows

At delivery: the other half of the equation#

Preparation for shipping doesn't end at pickup. The delivery inspection is equally important.

When the vehicle arrives, inspect it in daylight before signing the delivery Bill of Lading. Compare what you see to your pre-shipping photos. Work through the same sequence—every panel, all four corners, the glass, the underside of the bumpers. Take your time. Drivers are sometimes in a hurry; that's not your problem.

If you find new damage—something that appears in your delivery inspection but wasn't documented at pickup:

Note it specifically on the Bill of Lading before signing. Not "possible damage"—"3-inch scratch on rear driver quarter panel, not present in pre-shipping photos." Be specific.

Photograph it immediately with the driver present.

Do not sign the Bill of Lading clean if there's undocumented new damage. Once you sign without noting damage, you've legally confirmed the vehicle arrived in the documented condition.

Notify the carrier in writing within 24 hours. Email creates a timestamp. Reference the pre-shipping photos and the Bill of Lading notation.

Don't repair the vehicle before the claim is resolved unless the carrier authorizes it. Repairing first makes it harder to document original scope.

Delivery inspection in daylight, before signing, takes 10 minutes

A rushed delivery inspection in a parking garage at dusk is not equivalent to a methodical walk-around in natural light comparing against your pre-shipping photos. Take your time. If the driver is impatient, that's not a reason to rush through the inspection of a vehicle worth tens of thousands of dollars. Everything you did to prepare is useless if you sign the delivery Bill of Lading before completing the inspection.

Final thoughts#

Vehicle preparation for shipping is an hour of methodical work that almost every shipper benefits from in some way—even if the shipment is flawless and no claim is ever needed.

The photos document your vehicle's condition and give you peace of mind throughout transit. The mechanical checks prevent avoidable problems at pickup and delivery. The alarm and transponder prep prevents minor aggravations that affect your carrier relationship. The pickup inspection, done properly, creates a mutual record that protects both you and the carrier.

When something does go wrong—and across enough shipments, something eventually does—the shippers who recover quickly and fully are almost uniformly the ones who prepared thoroughly. The ones who can't recover are the ones who didn't.

An hour before pickup. It's worth it.