
There are five real ways to transport a vehicle. Most people only consider one — and it's not always the right one.#
When people search for how to transport a vehicle, they usually have a carrier in mind already. They want to know how to book it, what it costs, how long it takes. That's the right answer most of the time — but it's not the only answer.
Depending on the vehicle, the distance, your budget, and your timeline, the best method might be open transport, enclosed transport, a driveaway service, a self-tow, or even a train. Each one has a different cost structure, a different risk profile, and a different situation where it genuinely makes the most sense.
This guide covers all of them — how each method works, what it costs in 2026, and exactly when to use it.
Method 1: Open carrier transport#
Open carrier is the standard. When most people say "ship my car," this is what they mean, and what they get. A two-level trailer — the kind you see on any major highway loaded with new cars — carries your vehicle alongside 7–10 others from pickup to delivery.
How it works: You book with a carrier or broker, your car gets loaded onto the open trailer, and it rides to your destination exposed to weather and road conditions. The carrier drops it at or near your address (or as close as a 75-foot rig can get).
Cost: $550–$850 for regional moves under 500 miles. $750–$1,100 for mid-range hauls. $1,100–$1,500 for cross-country. These are 2026 off-peak rates for a standard sedan on a major lane. See our car shipping calculator for a route-specific estimate.
Transit time: 1–3 days regionally, 5–9 days cross-country.
The case for it: This is how new vehicles ship from manufacturers to dealerships. It's safe, reliable, and handles 90% of all auto transport in the United States for good reason. If you're shipping a daily driver, a used car, or anything that isn't a high-value collector piece, open carrier is the right method.
The case against it: Your car is exposed to weather, dust, and road debris during transit. Minor surface contamination (dust, light grime) is normal and expected. Rock chips or weather damage are uncommon but not impossible on longer hauls. If your vehicle has a factory-fresh detail or a show-quality finish you're trying to protect, open carrier introduces real risk.
Open carrier is how your new car got to the dealership
Every major manufacturer — Ford, Toyota, GM, BMW — ships new vehicles to dealerships on open carriers. If a $60,000 truck can ride across the country on an open trailer before delivery to a customer, your car can handle it too. The risk is real but routinely managed at scale.
Method 2: Enclosed carrier transport#
Enclosed transport puts your vehicle inside a covered trailer, protected from weather, road debris, and the minor cosmetic risks of open-air shipping. The trailer carries 2–4 vehicles instead of 8–10, which also means more individual attention per vehicle during loading and unloading.
How it works: Same booking process as open transport — carrier or broker, pickup window, Bill of Lading inspection at both ends. The difference is the trailer: fully enclosed, weatherproof, with a controlled interior environment. Carriers specialize in this and typically handle loading with more care than standard open carriers.
Cost: 50–80% premium over open transport for the same route. A $1,200 open quote becomes $1,800–$2,160 enclosed. On shorter hauls, a $700 open quote becomes $1,050–$1,260 enclosed.
Transit time: Similar to open carrier — 1–3 days regionally, 5–9 days cross-country. Enclosed carriers often have fewer stops and pickups due to smaller loads, which can slightly reduce transit time.
The case for it: High-value vehicles (generally $50,000+), classics and antiques with irreplaceable finishes, exotics with low ground clearance that complicates open ramp loading, and any vehicle where cosmetic perfection is genuinely critical. The premium is real but modest relative to the value of what's being protected.
The case against it: For most vehicles, it's an unnecessary expense. If you're shipping a 2019 RAV4 from Ohio to Texas, open carrier delivers the same result at significantly lower cost. The enclosed premium buys real protection — but only for vehicles that need it.
Not all enclosed transport is the same
Soft-sided enclosed trailers offer weather protection but less structural resistance. Hard-sided trailers — the premium tier — provide full protection against physical impact as well. If you're shipping a six-figure classic or exotic, ask specifically whether the trailer is hard-sided. The rate difference is modest; the protection difference is significant.
Method 3: Driveaway services#
A driveaway company hires a driver to physically drive your vehicle to its destination. Your car arrives under its own power, delivered by a stranger.
How it works: You engage a driveaway company, they assign a vetted driver heading toward your destination, the driver picks up your vehicle, drives it, and delivers it. You typically cover fuel costs on top of the service fee.
Cost: $500–$900 service fee, plus fuel ($150–$400 depending on vehicle MPG and distance). All-in: $650–$1,300 for a cross-country move.
Transit time: Depends entirely on how quickly the driver can make the trip. For a cross-country move, figure 4–6 days minimum.
The case for it: If you need someone to drive a vehicle somewhere and cost is flexible, driveaway can work. It's sometimes used for last-minute moves when carrier capacity is unavailable, or for relocating multiple vehicles when only one can be driven.
The case against it: The economics rarely work out the way people expect. Yes, the sticker fee is often lower than a carrier quote. But add fuel, and you've also added 2,000+ highway miles of wear and depreciation to your vehicle — oil consumption, tire wear, brake pad wear, and the general aging that comes with mileage. For a car worth $25,000 or more, those miles represent real value destruction that far exceeds the apparent savings.
The larger concern is liability. Driveaway company insurance coverage varies widely, and gaps between the company's policy and your own auto insurance can leave you exposed if the driver has an accident. Always get the insurance terms in writing before booking, including who files a claim and what your exposure is in the event of damage or collision.
Driveaway makes most sense for high-mileage older vehicles where additional miles don't meaningfully affect value, or in situations where a driver is genuinely needed rather than just a transport method.
Method 4: Towing it yourself#
If you have access to a capable tow vehicle and trailer, self-towing is a legitimate option — especially for moves under 500 miles or for situations where professional carrier scheduling doesn't align with your timeline.
How it works: You rent or own an auto transport trailer or flatbed, load your vehicle, and tow it to the destination with your own truck or SUV. U-Haul and similar rental companies offer auto transport trailers.
Cost: Trailer rental runs $50–$200/day plus mileage. Fuel cost for the tow vehicle on a cross-country move: $300–$600 depending on vehicle and route. Total for a 1,000-mile self-tow: $400–$900 in direct costs. Add hotel nights if it's a multi-day trip.
Transit time: As fast as you can drive it — 2–3 days for a coast-to-coast move if you push it.
The case for it: Maximum control and flexibility. No pickup windows, no waiting on carrier schedules. If you're already driving a moving truck or making a road trip anyway, towing a second vehicle adds relatively little incremental cost. Good for short regional moves where the math works.
The case against it: Towing is physically demanding and requires experience — towing an unfamiliar trailer on a multi-day highway trip is not for everyone. It significantly reduces your tow vehicle's fuel economy (expect 20–40% worse MPG). Weight ratings matter: your tow vehicle must be rated to handle the combined weight of the trailer and the vehicle being transported. Exceeding rated capacity is dangerous and voids warranties.
For moves over 800–1,000 miles, professional carrier transport is usually more economical when you factor in your own fuel, lodging, and time costs. Self-towing makes the most sense for regional moves where you're already driving.
Method 5: The Amtrak Auto Train#
This option applies to exactly one route in the United States, but it's worth knowing about if your move fits the corridor.
How it works: Amtrak's Auto Train service runs between Lorton, Virginia (near Washington D.C.) and Sanford, Florida (near Orlando). Your vehicle loads into an enclosed auto rack car on the train while you travel in a passenger car. You arrive at the destination at the same time as your car.
Cost: $300–$600 for the vehicle, plus your passenger fare ($100–$300 depending on seat/roomette/bedroom). Total: $400–$900 for a vehicle and single passenger. Competitive with open carrier transport on this corridor — and you arrive at your destination without driving.
Transit time: Overnight — the train departs in the afternoon and arrives the following morning.
The case for it: If you're moving between the D.C. area and Central Florida, this is a genuinely good option. Your car rides enclosed, you travel in comfort, and you arrive simultaneously — no coordinating separate pickup and delivery windows. Many retired snowbirds and seasonal movers use this route regularly.
The case against it: The route is fixed. If you're not moving between those two specific endpoints, the Amtrak Auto Train isn't available to you. There is no national rail network for vehicle transport in the United States — this is the only domestic passenger rail service that carries vehicles.
Auto Train sweet spot
The Amtrak Auto Train is uniquely well-suited for snowbird and seasonal moves between the Mid-Atlantic and Central Florida. If that's your corridor, run the numbers — you'll often find it competitive with open carrier pricing while adding the convenience of same-trip arrival and the protection of enclosed rail transport.
Method 6: Container shipping (international moves)#
For vehicles crossing oceans — to or from Hawaii, Alaska, Europe, Asia — the above methods don't apply. International vehicle transport uses either Roll-on/Roll-off (RoRo) shipping or container shipping.
RoRo (Roll-on/Roll-off): Your vehicle is driven onto a specialized cargo vessel, secured in the hold, and driven off at the destination port. Less expensive than container shipping, but your vehicle is exposed to salt air and minor dings from port handling.
Container shipping: Your vehicle is loaded into a standard shipping container — either alone (exclusive container) or shared with other vehicles or goods (consolidated/groupage). More expensive than RoRo but provides complete protection from the marine environment.
Cost for Hawaii from the West Coast: $900–$1,500 for the ocean freight component on RoRo; $1,400–$2,500 for exclusive container. Add ground transport on both ends.
Cost for Alaska from the Pacific Northwest: Similar RoRo pricing ($900–$1,400), with more limited options and longer transit times depending on destination within Alaska.
Cost for Europe: $1,500–$3,500 for RoRo depending on origin port and destination; container pricing from $2,500–$5,000+ exclusive.
International shipping requires customs documentation, compliance with destination country import regulations, and coordination between domestic carriers and international freight forwarders. It's a meaningfully more complex process than domestic transport — if you're doing it for the first time, work with a company that specializes specifically in international vehicle relocation.
How to choose the right method#
The decision tree is simpler than the options list makes it look.
For most domestic moves: Open carrier. Full stop. It's safe, affordable, widely available, and handles 90% of all vehicle transport. If someone is trying to talk you into enclosed transport for a standard vehicle, ask why.
For high-value, classic, or cosmetically sensitive vehicles: Enclosed carrier. The premium is worth it for the right vehicle. For a $150,000 Ferrari or a restored 1965 Mustang, the cost difference between open and enclosed is trivial against the value of what's being protected.
For the D.C.-to-Florida corridor: Check Amtrak Auto Train pricing before booking a carrier. It often comes out comparable in cost with added convenience.
For a move under 300–400 miles where you're already driving: Consider self-towing. The economics can work for short regional hauls, especially if you have the right tow vehicle.
For overseas moves: RoRo or container shipping, full stop — there's no alternative for ocean crossings.
Driveaway: Almost never the right call for vehicles worth over $20,000. The apparent savings don't survive real accounting for mileage, wear, and insurance gaps.
For current pricing on open and enclosed carrier transport for your specific route, use the car shipping calculator. For a detailed breakdown of what drives cost differences between these methods, the car shipping rates guide covers every pricing variable in detail.
The honest summary#
Open carrier handles everything for most people. The other methods exist for specific situations where open carrier isn't the right fit — high-value vehicles, specific corridors, international crossings, or moves where you need to drive anyway.
Know which situation you're in, match it to the right method, and you'll avoid both overpaying for protection you don't need and underpaying for protection you do.